Claire McCardell: The Designer Who Set Women Free

Claire McCardell was a fashion designer who fundamentally transformed women's clothing and, by extension, women's lives. She introduced numerous garments now considered everyday essentials: ballet flats, wrap dresses, hoodies, leggings, and denim in womenswear. She replaced restrictive corsets with comfortable, elegant designs and championed practical features like pockets and accessible zippers, reasoning that women living independently needed functional clothing. After World War II, McCardell resisted the severe, hyper-feminized silhouettes promoted by male designers like Christian Dior, who sought to "save women from nature." McCardell instead aimed to set women free. Journalist Betty Friedan called her "The Gal Who Defied Dior" in 1955. This biography chronicles how McCardell built a successful business during an era when women rarely reached leadership positions in industry. Her story centers on the fundamental right to choose what we wear and, more broadly, how we live. Named one of The New York Times's 100 Notable Books of 2025.